You first impression on arriving to Naples is bound to be one of shock. When they said it was one of Italy's top città d'arte, they can't have meant the eye-soring graffiti on urban trains, the crumbling facades, and the teetering street stalls, could they? Hold you horses, you've seen the worst, now prepare for the outstanding. From the staggering finds from Pompeii and Herculaneum to Titian and Caravaggio, from the legendary Vesuvius rising from the Bay of Naples to steam-gushing Campi Flegrei, and from the shop-flanked Via Toledo to the scenic Parco Virgiliano with a series of terraces overlooking the Gulf - Naples will not disappoint if you give it a go.