Late morning. The Council of Europe has just passed another resolution, and a top-to-toe-Gaultier mademoiselle walks out of a Louis Vuitton store right into a group of animated students running late to a lecture at the University of Strasbourg. At the same time, an elderly man hands out variously-stuffed crêpes (pancakes) from a tiny booth at Place Broglie and a family of three zooms between museums in the heart of La Petite France. Strasbourg may be Europe's modern capital and the intellectual hub of Alsace, but it is also a historic town with manifold opportunities for nostalgic visitors to step back into a bygone era, when growing a splendid garden, enjoying a meal with family, and making a modest living gave a sense of utmost accomplishment. Strasbourg has something for everyone. Art aficionados are spoiled for choice, and so are gastronomes. Barflies whiz to student-ridden Krutenau and flaneurs try to take their eyes away from the marvelous little houses that flank the River Ill.