:root{color-scheme:light;--travel-yellow:#f4c928;--travel-charcoal:#17191d;--travel-warm-white:#f7f5ef;--travel-slate:#586470;--travel-yellow-50:#fffbe7;--travel-yellow-100:#fff4bd;--travel-yellow-200:#ffe886;--travel-yellow-300:#fad954;--travel-yellow-400:#f4c928;--travel-yellow-500:#e2b618;--travel-yellow-600:#b58a00;--travel-yellow-700:#855f00;--travel-neutral-0:#fff;--travel-neutral-50:#f7f5ef;--travel-neutral-100:#f0eee8;--travel-neutral-200:#e0e2e1;--travel-neutral-300:#cad0d0;--travel-neutral-400:#99a3ac;--travel-neutral-500:#747f89;--travel-neutral-600:#586470;--travel-neutral-700:#424b55;--travel-neutral-800:#2b3037;--travel-neutral-900:#17191d;--travel-neutral-950:#111318;--travel-positive:#187849;--travel-negative:#b3343b;--travel-caution:#946000;--travel-informative:#24619d;--travel-font-display:"Sora", "Inter", system-ui, sans-serif;--travel-font-body:"Inter", system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", sans-serif;--travel-font-mono:ui-monospace, SFMono-Regular, Menlo, Consolas, monospace;--travel-text-xs:.75rem;--travel-text-sm:.875rem;--travel-text-md:1rem;--travel-text-lg:1.125rem;--travel-text-xl:1.25rem;--travel-text-2xl:1.5rem;--travel-display-sm:clamp(2rem, 5vw, 3.25rem);--travel-display-lg:clamp(2.65rem, 7vw, 5.5rem);--travel-leading-tight:1.1;--travel-leading-body:1.55;--travel-weight-regular:400;--travel-weight-medium:500;--travel-weight-semibold:600;--travel-weight-bold:700;--travel-space-1:4px;--travel-space-2:8px;--travel-space-3:12px;--travel-space-4:16px;--travel-space-5:20px;--travel-space-6:24px;--travel-space-8:32px;--travel-space-10:40px;--travel-space-12:48px;--travel-space-16:64px;--travel-space-20:80px;--travel-space-24:96px;--travel-radius-sm:8px;--travel-radius-md:14px;--travel-radius-lg:20px;--travel-radius-xl:28px;--travel-radius-pill:999px;--travel-shadow-sm:0 4px 16px #17191d0f;--travel-shadow-md:0 14px 36px #17191d1a;--travel-shadow-lg:0 24px 64px #17191d26;--travel-content-width:1200px;--travel-narrow-width:760px;--travel-motion-fast:.14s;--travel-motion-base:.22s;--travel-motion-ease:cubic-bezier(.2,.7,.2,1)}:root,:root[data-theme=light],[data-theme=light]{--travel-bg:#f7f5ef;--travel-surface:#fff;--travel-surface-subtle:#f0eee8;--travel-text:#17191d;--travel-text-muted:#586470;--travel-border:#cad0d0;--travel-primary:#17191d;--travel-primary-hover:#30353d;--travel-primary-text:#fff;--travel-accent:#f4c928;--travel-accent-hover:#e2b618;--travel-heading-accent:#855f00;--travel-on-accent:#17191d;--travel-focus:#855f00;--travel-card-shadow:0 14px 36px #17191d12}:root[data-theme=dark],[data-theme=dark]{color-scheme:dark;--travel-bg:#111318;--travel-surface:#1e2228;--travel-surface-subtle:#2b3037;--travel-text:#f7f5ef;--travel-text-muted:#b5bec6;--travel-border:#464d56;--travel-primary:#f7f5ef;--travel-primary-hover:#e0e2e1;--travel-primary-text:#17191d;--travel-accent:#f4c928;--travel-accent-hover:#ffe06d;--travel-heading-accent:#f4c928;--travel-on-accent:#17191d;--travel-focus:#f4c928;--travel-card-shadow:0 14px 36px #0000003d}@media (prefers-color-scheme:dark){:root:not([data-theme]){color-scheme:dark;--travel-bg:#111318;--travel-surface:#1e2228;--travel-surface-subtle:#2b3037;--travel-text:#f7f5ef;--travel-text-muted:#b5bec6;--travel-border:#464d56;--travel-primary:#f7f5ef;--travel-primary-hover:#e0e2e1;--travel-primary-text:#17191d;--travel-accent:#f4c928;--travel-accent-hover:#ffe06d;--travel-heading-accent:#f4c928;--travel-on-accent:#17191d;--travel-focus:#f4c928;--travel-card-shadow:0 14px 36px #0000003d}}@media (prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){:root{--travel-motion-fast:0s;--travel-motion-base:0s}}*{box-sizing:border-box}[hidden]{display:none!important}html{scroll-behavior:smooth;scroll-padding-top:32px}body{background:var(--travel-bg);color:var(--travel-text);font:400 1rem/1.55 var(--travel-font-body);-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased;margin:0}a{color:inherit;text-decoration:none}button,input,select{font:inherit}button,a,select{-webkit-tap-highlight-color:transparent}button{cursor:pointer}:focus-visible{outline:3px solid var(--travel-focus);outline-offset:4px}#main:focus{outline:none}img{max-width:100%;height:auto;display:block}svg{flex-shrink:0}h1,h2,h3,p,figure{margin:0}h1,h2,h3{font-family:var(--travel-font-display);letter-spacing:-.045em;text-wrap:balance;font-weight:700;line-height:1.18}::selection{background:var(--travel-accent);color:var(--travel-on-accent)}.shell{width:min(calc(100% - 80px), var(--travel-content-width));margin-inline:auto}.sr-only{clip:rect(0,0,0,0);white-space:nowrap;border:0;width:1px;height:1px;margin:-1px;padding:0;position:absolute;overflow:hidden}.eyebrow{letter-spacing:.16em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--travel-text-muted);font-size:.6875rem;font-weight:700;line-height:1.6}.eyebrow-line{align-items:center;gap:12px;display:flex}.eyebrow-line:before{content:"";border-radius:var(--travel-radius-pill);background:var(--travel-accent);flex-shrink:0;width:28px;height:4px}.arrow-icon{width:22px;height:22px}.skip-link{color:var(--travel-on-accent);background:var(--travel-accent);border-radius:var(--travel-radius-sm);z-index:10;padding:16px 24px;position:absolute;top:-96px;left:16px}.skip-link:focus{top:16px}.site-header{border-bottom:1px solid var(--travel-border);justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:32px;min-height:112px;display:flex}.brand-link{align-items:center;padding:12px 0;display:inline-flex}.brand-logo{display:block}.brand-logo img{width:auto;height:44px}.brand-on-dark,:root[data-theme=dark] .site-header .brand-on-light{display:none}:root[data-theme=dark] .site-header .brand-on-dark{display:block}:root[data-theme=dark] .hero-highlight:after{height:4px;bottom:-4px}.site-header nav{gap:32px;display:flex}.site-header nav a{align-items:center;min-height:48px;font-size:.8125rem;font-weight:600;display:flex;position:relative}.site-header nav a:after{content:"";background:var(--travel-accent);width:0;height:3px;transition:width var(--travel-motion-base);position:absolute;bottom:6px;left:0}.site-header nav a:hover:after,.site-header nav a.active:after{width:100%}.header-explore{border:1px solid var(--travel-border);border-radius:var(--travel-radius-pill);align-items:center;gap:24px;min-height:48px;padding:12px 20px;font-size:.8125rem;font-weight:600;display:inline-flex}.header-explore:hover{background:var(--travel-surface-subtle)}.button{border-radius:var(--travel-radius-pill);min-height:52px;transition:background var(--travel-motion-base), transform var(--travel-motion-base);border:1px solid #0000;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:24px;padding:16px 24px;font-size:.875rem;font-weight:700;line-height:1.2;display:inline-flex}.button-accent{color:var(--travel-on-accent);background:var(--travel-accent)}.button-accent:hover{background:var(--travel-accent-hover);transform:translateY(-2px)}.quiet-link,.text-link{align-items:center;gap:16px;min-height:48px;font-size:.8125rem;font-weight:600;display:inline-flex}.quiet-link:hover,.text-link:hover{text-underline-offset:5px;text-decoration:underline}.text-link .arrow-icon{width:20px;height:20px}.home-hero{grid-template-columns:1.05fr 1fr;align-items:center;gap:40px;padding-block:48px;display:grid}.hero-intro{padding-block:20px}.hero-intro h1{letter-spacing:-.06em;margin-top:24px;font-size:clamp(3rem,5.65vw,4.75rem);line-height:1.12}.hero-highlight{isolation:isolate;display:inline-block;position:relative}.hero-highlight:after{content:"";background:var(--travel-accent);z-index:-1;height:16px;position:absolute;bottom:4px;left:0;right:-4px}.hero-description{max-width:360px;color:var(--travel-text-muted);margin-top:28px;font-size:1.0625rem;line-height:1.8}.hero-actions{flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;gap:12px 24px;margin-top:28px;display:flex}.hero-actions .quiet-link{gap:12px;font-size:.75rem}.hero-feature{border-radius:var(--travel-radius-xl);background:var(--travel-surface);flex-direction:column;min-width:0;height:540px;display:flex;position:relative;overflow:hidden}.hero-feature>img{object-fit:cover;width:100%;height:100%;min-height:0;transition:transform var(--travel-motion-base);flex:1}.hero-feature:hover>img{transform:scale(1.025)}.photo-tag{background:var(--travel-yellow);color:var(--travel-on-accent);border-radius:var(--travel-radius-pill);align-items:center;gap:8px;padding:8px 12px;font-size:.6875rem;font-weight:600;display:inline-flex;position:absolute;top:24px;left:24px}.hero-feature-caption{background:var(--travel-surface);justify-content:space-between;align-items:end;gap:16px;padding:24px 28px;display:flex;position:relative}.hero-feature-caption h2{letter-spacing:-.055em;margin-block:8px;font-size:1.875rem}.hero-feature-caption>div>p:last-child{color:var(--travel-text-muted);font-size:.75rem}.round-arrow{background:var(--travel-accent);width:48px;height:48px;color:var(--travel-on-accent);border-radius:50%;flex-shrink:0;justify-content:center;align-items:center;display:inline-flex}.explore-strip{border-block:1px solid var(--travel-border);justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:24px;padding-block:16px;font-size:.75rem;display:flex}.explore-strip>p{color:var(--travel-text-muted)}.explore-strip>div{gap:32px;display:flex}.explore-strip a{align-items:center;gap:16px;min-height:48px;font-weight:600;display:inline-flex}.explore-strip a:hover{text-underline-offset:4px;text-decoration:underline}.journal-section{padding-block:80px}.section-heading{justify-content:space-between;align-items:end;gap:32px;margin-bottom:32px;display:flex}.section-heading h2{margin-top:16px;font-size:clamp(1.875rem,3.1vw,2.5rem)}.section-heading>div>p:last-child:not(.eyebrow){color:var(--travel-text-muted);margin-top:12px;font-size:.875rem}.section-heading>.text-link{flex-shrink:0}.article-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:32px 24px;display:grid}.article-card{border-radius:var(--travel-radius-lg);border:1px solid var(--travel-border);background:var(--travel-surface);min-width:0;transition:box-shadow var(--travel-motion-base);flex-direction:column;display:flex;overflow:hidden}.article-card:hover{box-shadow:var(--travel-shadow-sm)}.card-visual{aspect-ratio:1.55;background:var(--travel-surface-subtle);display:block;position:relative;overflow:hidden;container-type:inline-size}.card-visual>img{object-fit:cover;width:100%;height:100%;transition:transform var(--travel-motion-base)}.article-card:hover .card-visual>img{transform:scale(1.03)}.card-arrow{background:var(--travel-warm-white);width:40px;height:40px;color:var(--travel-charcoal);border-radius:50%;place-items:center;display:grid;position:absolute;bottom:16px;right:16px}.card-arrow svg{width:18px;height:18px}.card-content{flex-direction:column;flex:1;padding:24px;display:flex}.card-category{letter-spacing:.12em;margin-bottom:12px;font-size:.625rem}.article-card h3{letter-spacing:-.04em;font-size:1.25rem;line-height:1.35}.article-card h3 a{min-height:48px;display:block}.article-card h3 a:hover{text-underline-offset:4px;text-decoration:underline 1px}.card-description{color:var(--travel-text-muted);margin-top:12px;font-size:.8125rem;line-height:1.75}.card-meta{color:var(--travel-text-muted);justify-content:space-between;gap:12px;margin-top:auto;padding-top:24px;font-size:.625rem;display:flex}.typographic-cover{background:var(--travel-yellow-100);height:100%;color:var(--travel-charcoal);flex-direction:column;justify-content:space-between;align-items:start;padding:24px;display:flex}.cover-label,.cover-caption{letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;font-size:.5625rem;font-weight:600}.typographic-cover strong{font:700 clamp(2rem,14cqw,4rem)/1 var(--travel-font-display);letter-spacing:-.065em}.visual-1 .typographic-cover{background:var(--travel-charcoal);color:var(--travel-warm-white)}.visual-2 .typographic-cover{background:var(--travel-yellow)}.places-section{background:var(--travel-surface-subtle);padding-block:72px 48px}.section-aside{max-width:340px;color:var(--travel-text-muted);font-size:.8125rem;line-height:1.8}.place-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:24px;display:grid}.place-card{border-radius:var(--travel-radius-lg);background:var(--travel-surface);overflow:hidden}.place-card>img{aspect-ratio:1.15;object-fit:cover;width:100%;transition:transform var(--travel-motion-base)}.place-card:hover>img{transform:scale(1.02)}.place-caption{background:var(--travel-surface);padding:24px 76px 24px 24px;position:relative}.place-caption>p{color:var(--travel-text-muted);font-size:.6875rem}.place-caption h3{margin-top:8px;font-size:1.125rem}.place-caption .round-arrow{background:var(--travel-surface-subtle);width:40px;height:40px;color:var(--travel-text);position:absolute;top:50%;right:20px;transform:translateY(-50%)}.places-footnote{text-align:center;color:var(--travel-text-muted);margin-top:24px;font-size:.6875rem}.places-footnote a{text-underline-offset:4px;text-decoration:underline}.story-section{padding-block:80px}.story-card{background:var(--travel-charcoal);color:var(--travel-text);border-radius:var(--travel-radius-xl);grid-template-columns:1.2fr 1fr;display:grid;overflow:hidden}.story-copy{padding:48px}.story-copy h2{margin-top:24px;font-size:2.5rem;line-height:1.2}.story-copy h2 span{color:var(--travel-accent)}.story-copy>p:not(.eyebrow){max-width:430px;color:var(--travel-text-muted);margin-block:24px;font-size:.875rem;line-height:1.9}.story-photo{border-radius:var(--travel-radius-md);margin:24px 24px 24px 0;position:relative;overflow:hidden}.story-photo img{object-fit:cover;width:100%;height:100%}.story-photo span{background:var(--travel-charcoal);color:var(--travel-warm-white);text-align:center;padding:16px;font-size:.6875rem;position:absolute;inset:auto 0 0}.site-footer{background:var(--travel-bg);color:var(--travel-text)}.footer-top{grid-template-columns:1.25fr 1fr 1fr;gap:48px;padding-block:64px 48px;display:grid}.footer-top>div:first-child>p{color:var(--travel-text-muted);margin-top:20px;font-size:.875rem;line-height:1.8}.footer-top .eyebrow{margin-bottom:20px;font-size:.625rem}.footer-links>a{justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:16px;max-width:200px;min-height:48px;font-size:.8125rem;display:flex}.footer-links>a:hover{text-underline-offset:4px;text-decoration:underline}.footer-links svg{width:16px;height:16px}.footer-note>p:not(.eyebrow){color:var(--travel-text-muted);margin-bottom:24px;font-size:.8125rem;line-height:1.9}.footer-note .button{min-height:48px;padding:12px 20px;font-size:.75rem}.footer-bottom{border-top:1px solid var(--travel-border);color:var(--travel-text-muted);align-items:center;gap:24px;padding-block:20px;font-size:.625rem;display:flex}.footer-bottom>a{align-items:center;min-height:48px;margin-left:auto;display:inline-flex}.theme-control{align-items:center;gap:12px;margin-left:auto;display:flex}.theme-control select{border-radius:var(--travel-radius-sm);border:1px solid var(--travel-border);background:var(--travel-surface);min-height:48px;color:var(--travel-text);padding:8px 12px;font-size:.75rem}.journal-index{padding-block:64px 80px}.index-intro{justify-content:space-between;align-items:end;gap:40px;padding-bottom:48px;display:flex}.index-intro h1{letter-spacing:-.055em;margin-top:24px;font-size:clamp(2.65rem,5vw,4.5rem);line-height:1.12}.index-intro h1 span{color:var(--travel-heading-accent)}.index-intro>p{color:var(--travel-text-muted);max-width:360px;font-size:.9375rem;line-height:1.9}.index-intro>p strong{color:var(--travel-text);font-weight:500}.journal-controls{border-block:1px solid var(--travel-border);justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:24px;padding-block:24px;display:flex}.filter-group{flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;display:flex}.filter-pill{border-radius:var(--travel-radius-pill);border:1px solid var(--travel-border);min-height:48px;color:var(--travel-text);background:0 0;padding:12px 16px;font-size:.75rem;font-weight:600}.filter-pill[aria-pressed=true]{background:var(--travel-primary);color:var(--travel-primary-text);border-color:var(--travel-primary)}.filter-pill:hover:not([aria-pressed=true]){background:var(--travel-surface-subtle)}.journal-search{border:1px solid var(--travel-border);border-radius:var(--travel-radius-pill);background:var(--travel-surface);align-items:center;gap:12px;min-width:220px;max-width:280px;padding:0 16px;display:flex}.journal-search svg{width:18px;height:18px;color:var(--travel-text-muted)}.journal-search input{width:100%;min-width:0;min-height:48px;color:var(--travel-text);background:0 0;border:none;padding:12px 0;font-size:.8125rem}.journal-search:focus-within{outline:3px solid var(--travel-focus);outline-offset:3px}.journal-search input:focus-visible{outline:none}.journal-search input::placeholder{color:var(--travel-text-muted);opacity:1}.index-rule{color:var(--travel-text-muted);justify-content:space-between;gap:16px;padding-block:24px;font-size:.6875rem;display:flex}.empty-state{text-align:center;border:1px dashed var(--travel-border);border-radius:var(--travel-radius-lg);padding:64px 24px}.empty-state h2{font-size:1.5rem}.empty-state p{color:var(--travel-text-muted);max-width:480px;margin:16px auto 24px;font-size:.875rem}.article-page{padding-top:32px}.guides-section{padding-block:64px}.guide-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:24px;display:grid}.guide-card{border:1px solid var(--travel-border);border-radius:var(--travel-radius-lg);background:var(--travel-surface);padding:clamp(24px,4vw,48px)}.guide-card:hover{box-shadow:var(--travel-shadow-sm)}.guide-card h3{letter-spacing:-.04em;margin-block:16px;font-size:2rem}.guide-card>p:not(.eyebrow){color:var(--travel-text-muted);max-width:40ch;line-height:1.8}.guide-card .text-link{margin-top:24px}@media (width<=640px){.guide-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}.guides-section{padding-block:48px}}.breadcrumbs{color:var(--travel-text-muted);flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;gap:16px;font-size:.6875rem;display:flex}.breadcrumbs>a{align-items:center;min-height:48px;display:inline-flex}.breadcrumbs>a:hover{text-underline-offset:4px;text-decoration:underline}.article-header{text-align:center;max-width:960px;margin:32px auto 40px}.article-header .eyebrow{justify-content:center}.article-header h1{letter-spacing:-.05em;margin-top:24px;font-size:clamp(2.25rem,4.5vw,3.75rem);line-height:1.16}.article-deck{max-width:660px;color:var(--travel-text-muted);margin:24px auto;font-size:1.0625rem;line-height:1.8}.article-meta{text-align:left;justify-content:center;align-items:center;gap:12px;font-size:.6875rem;display:flex}.article-meta strong{font-size:.75rem;font-weight:600}.article-meta p{color:var(--travel-text-muted);margin-top:4px}.article-meta p>span{padding-inline:4px}.author-mark{width:40px;height:40px;color:var(--travel-on-accent);background:var(--travel-accent);border-radius:50%;place-items:center;font-size:24px;display:grid}.article-hero{margin-bottom:48px}.article-hero>img{object-fit:cover;border-radius:var(--travel-radius-xl);width:100%;max-height:560px}.article-hero figcaption{color:var(--travel-text-muted);text-align:right;margin-top:12px;font-size:.625rem}.reading-layout{grid-template-columns:240px minmax(0,760px);justify-content:center;gap:64px;padding-bottom:64px;display:grid}.article-sidebar{min-width:0}.contents{position:sticky;top:32px}.contents>p{border-top:3px solid var(--travel-accent);padding-block:12px}.contents ol{max-height:65vh;margin:8px 0 24px;padding:0;list-style:none;overflow-y:auto}.contents li a{min-height:48px;color:var(--travel-text-muted);border-bottom:1px solid var(--travel-border);align-items:center;padding-block:12px;font-size:.6875rem;line-height:1.6;display:flex}.contents li 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